From National Geographic Traveler, January/February 2010
48 Hours: Fiesta Time in Santa Fe
The Southwest stunner turns 400. Here, seven ways to celebrate. By Melinda Mahaffey
For an old lady of 400, Santa Fe has never looked so good. The town of 70,000 is celebrating a new history museum and a renovated historic district, not to mention a 16-month-long birthday party. Aggressive state film incentives over the past seven years have brought feature productions like No Country for Old Men and the upcoming Legion to town, adding to Santa Fe's artsy rep. But some things never change: You'll still find the adobe architecture and eclectic vibe that has lured countless writers, painters, and actors—such as Willa Cather, Shirley MacLaine, and Cormac McCarthy—to the "City Different."
1. Touch History: Delve into the 47th state's past at the 96,000-square-foot New Mexico History Museum, which opened last May. Visitors can view a piece of 16th-century Spanish chain mail and experience some of the mystery of 109 E. Palace Avenue, the arrival point for scientists working on the Manhattan Project in Los Alamos in the 1940s. Wrap up your visit at the 1609-built Palace of the Governors, highlighting the two 18th-century Segesser hide paintings that depict early colonial life, and Tesoros de Devoción, a permanent exhibit of New Mexican religious icons. "But the building is our most important artifact," says director Frances Levine, "because it's the place where our history began."
2. Make Tracks for Art and Edibles: A former eyesore, the new Railyard District today features art spaces like teen-geared Warehouse 21 and gallery/shop/studio Santa Fe Clay. Join Santa Feans on Saturday mornings at the beloved Farmers Market to pick up organic raspberries, Arena blanca chocolate, Diablo red wine, green chili mustard, and goat cheese. Miguel Gallegos, operations manager at the Market, suggests grabbing a cup of coffee and a breakfast burrito to enjoy in the ten-acre xeriscaped park that runs between the acequia and the tracks.
3. Discover O'Keeffe: D. H. Lawrence, Martha Graham, and Ansel Adams all flocked to northern New Mexico in the 1920s and '30s for its welcoming arts scene, but only Georgia O'Keeffe stayed permanently. Today, the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum downtown is home to the largest single collection of her work with more than a thousand paintings, sculptures, and drawings. But for a more intimate view, book a tour of the O'Keeffe Home and Studio (from March to November) in Abiquiu (48 miles from Santa Fe), her full-time home starting in 1949. The restored 18th-century adobe building has been maintained exactly as she had before her death in 1986. "You'll see that O'Keeffe lived the modernist aesthetic that she painted," says museum curator Barbara Buhler Lynes. "It's simple, elegant, and minimal. After a visit, people realize they need to throw out stuff."
4. Delight Your Tastebuds: Santa Fe has long been on the gourmet's itinerary, both for its celebrity chef-helmed restaurants and its pioneering use of red and green chili at places like Café Pasqual's. Chef John Vollertsen, food editor at Santa Fean, recommends Atrisco Cafe and Bar, with its healthier take on time-honored recipes (try the whole-wheat sopapillas), and Max's, where chef Brian Rood makes a memorable roasted green chile shrimp and grits. "He's going to be Santa Fe's next great chef," predicts Vollertsen.
5. Take a Hike: Nestled against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe boasts outdoor adventure literally at its back door. The seven-mile Atalaya Mountain Trail—part of the Dale Ball Trail System—starts from the parking lot at St. John's College and rewards hikers with expansive city views. Sixteen miles further afield, the Santa Fe Ski Basin attracts downhill and cross-country skiers and snowboarders to its 72 runs.
6. Go to Class: With its rich culture and natural beauty, Santa Fe inspires classes from personal transformation to photography. Learn how to prepare authentic New Mexican red and green chili sauce at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Painter Jane Shoenfeld (www.skyfields.net) will help you capture the scenic Southwest on canvas, while porcelain artist Heidi Loewen (www.heidiloewen.com) can teach you how to throw a pot.
7. Get Soaked: Wind down with a soak at Ten Thousand Waves, the tranquil Japanese-themed spa located in the hills above Santa Fe and featuring seven outdoor and one semi-enclosed baths. "I recommend the Four Hands massage, where two therapists work on you," says public relations director Mary Johnson. "Your mind can get around two hands, but it doesn't know what to do with four. It's a lot of fun."
Santa Fe Hotel Finder: Four Insider Picks
1. Inn of the Anasazi: This 58-room boutique hotel boasts an acclaimed restaurant and an even more impressive location, just off the Plaza. Even if the room rate is out of your price range, stop by The Patio for a drink—you just might spot a Hollywood celebrity. From $249.
2. Inn and Spa at Loretto: The 134-room complex—with an exterior made to look like the main building at the Taos Pueblo—completed a $7.5-million renovation in 2008. During the warmer months, dine at Luminaria's romantic outdoor patio, which manages to stay tranquil despite the hotel's downtown location. From $189.
3. Hotel St. Francis: Reopened in October 2009 after a redesign, Santa Fe's oldest hotel offers good value just a block from downtown. Eschewing the usual Southwestern patterns and colors, the decor here takes inspiration from the hotel's name and deploys a Franciscan theme, incorporating stone and wood and featuring a baptismal font in the lobby. From $119.
4. Inn of the Turquoise Bear: Poet Witter Bynner and his longtime companion, Robert Hunt, hosted artists and thinkers from Ansel Adams to Robert J. Oppenheimer here. Today the historic B&B has 11 bedrooms—most with ceiling vigas and kiva fireplaces—named after the famed visitors. The inn wins raves for its peaceful gardens and wine-and-cheese hour. From $115.